Thursday, June 15, 2006

Hops

Boy, things have really changed in the past few years when it comes to hops. Seems like just yesterday that if you had hops reaching a 9% alpha acid, you had some really strong stuff. Most of my brewing books do not mention Simcoe, Warrior, or Yukama-Magnum, all hops that have an alpha content in the double digits.

I found a nice hops chart at Weekend Brewer that list the hops that they sell along with letting you know if they are bittering or aroma hops.

Also, a nice article from the Philadelphia Inquirer that pertains to hops and microbreweries. Part of that is reprinted below.

Joe Sixpack | Hybrid-hop Simcoe is hot

Philadelphia Inquirer
June 09, 2006
We thought, 'Man, wouldn't it be great to make a beer that would be dominated by Simcoe?

FORGET cascades hops. The newest beer craze is Simcoe.

Cascades, of course, is the classic West Coast hop, the small, vine-grown bud that gives beer its aroma, its bitterness, its spice. For 20 years, the fresh, aromatic, grapefruit-like Cascades virtually defined American-made craft beer, and it still reigns as one of the biggest sellers.

But six years ago, agriculture scientists in Washington State introduced a hybrid called Simcoe, and brewers have been boiling it big time ever since.

Yards Brewing, in Kensington, used it in its reformulated Philly Pale Ale recipe, and watched sales rocket. Troegs Brewing, in Harrisburg, adds it to Nugget Nectar Ale. In Delaware, Dogfish Head Brewing's Sam Calagione said his brewers were using Simcoe before it even had a name, when it was known only as 'Experimental Hop No. 555.' Today, he said, Dogfish Head tosses a 'load' of it into 90 Minute IPA.

Even savvy homebrewers are onto Simcoe. 'There's a latent buzz around it,' said Jason Harris, of Keystone Homebrew Supply in Montgomeryville. 'Simcoe's made a huge impact.'

Simcoe is so hot, Weyerbacher Brewing in Easton just named its newest beer after the plant: Simcoe Double IPA.

Read more at the Philadelphia Inquirer.


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Tuesday, June 13, 2006

Hefe Weizen Beer Recipe

Summer is just about here and time to make a lighter type of beer. One style that tastes great during those hot, steamy days is a hefe weizen. Sure, it takes a few to get use to the taste (not your typical beer), but during the summer it sure hits the spot.
This recipe was taken from the Tastybrew recipe bank and is primarily geared to extract brewers.

Killer Bee Wheat

Name Killer Bee Wheat
Description A Perfectly Balanced Honey Weizen
Added by Matt Wilson
Date Submitted Sun, 15 Dec 2002 03:49 AM (GMT)
Ingredients
  • 6# Wheat LME
  • 3# Clover Honey
  • 1/2# Carapils
  • 2 oz Saaz hops
  • 5 oz corn sugar
  • Muntons Gold Ale Yeast
  • 1 Tsp Irish Moss
  • 1 package Knox unflavored gelatin
Preparation
8 oz Carapils in 2 gallons cold water, heat to 170 and hold 30 minutes.Remove Carapils and bring to boil. Add 6# Wheat LME and 1 oz Saaz in hop bag.Boil 45 minutes.Add 2# Clover Honey. Boil 10 minutes. Add 1oz Saaz and 1 Tsp Irish Moss in hop bag. Boil 5 minutes. Remove from heat add cold water to make 5.5 gallons. Cool to 80 degrees and pitch yeast. Primary ferment 3 days, rack to secondary fermenter.Pasterize 1# Clover Honey @ 180 degrees for 30 minutes, add to secondary fermenter for 14 days. Fine with 1 package Knox Gelatin 3 days before bottling. Condition 2 weeks @ 65-70 degrees.
Specifics
Style Hefe-
Recipe Type Extract
Batch Size 5 Gallons
Original Gravity 1.060
Final Gravity 1.018
Boiling Time 60 minutes
Primary Fermentation plastic 3 days
Secondary Fermentation glass 14 days
Other Specifics IBU=10 color= 3HCU Alcohol content 5.4%
Comments

I tried this tonite after bottling on thanksgiving and I cant stop grinning! This is far and away the single best homebrew I ( or my wife and a few friends) have ever tried. It is very carbonated, next time I will cut the priming sugar back to 4 oz. The head is thick and tall and lasts the length of the glass.Color,clarity,and balance is perfect. I think the honey in the secondary really kicked it up a notch.This batch won't last long.


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Monday, June 05, 2006

Blonde Ale

With lawmower season upon us, now is the time to brew a lighter style of beer. This is and original recipe that has been generated using Promash software. The grains in this recipe are to be crushed and steeped for about and hour. Add the Irish moss when you put the second batch of hops in and allow to ferment for about a week.

This is a good base recipe to use to make other beers, so experiment with it.

A ProMash Recipe Report

BJCP Style and Style Guidelines
-------------------------------
03-A Light Ale,
Blonde Ale
Min OG: 1.045
Max OG: 1.060
Min IBU: 15
Max IBU: 33
Min Clr: 2 Max Clr: 8
Color Yellow Gold

Recipe Specifics
----------------
Batch Size (Gal): 5.00
Wort Size (Gal): 3.00
Total Grain (Lbs): 6.00
Anticipated OG: 1.051
Plato: 12.65
Anticipated SRM: 6.3
Anticipated IBU: 18.2
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75 %
Wort Boil Time: 30 Minutes

Grain/Extract/Sugar
---------------------------------------------
5.00 lbs. Light Dry Malt Extract
.50 lbs. Crystal 10L
.50 lbs. Cara-Pils Dextrine Malt

Hops
-------------------------------------
1.00 oz. Cascade Pellets for 30 min.
1.00 oz. Fuggle Pellets for 20 min.

Yeast
-----------------------------------
Lallemand Doric

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Thursday, May 11, 2006

Making Beer the Easy Way

I found this tutorial at Instructables.com. It doesn't get any easier than this except for maybe buying a commercially made beer. This is really for the true beginner and uses a lot of techinques that I have used and still use for making beer. One thing to be careful about is using the plastic water jug. Most companies will not take them back if you use them for making beer or wine. Also, I never use a bottle brush on my plastic jugs instead I use Oxi-Clean. Oxi-Clean will take out and clean the plastic jug almost 100% of the time and if you do need to clean inside the neck, you a soft cloth.

So, you've considered brewing your own beer but you're not yet willing to drop the cash for the entry level kit just yet. With a few simple pieces of equipment and ingredients here's how you can brew your own mini batch. In just a couple of weeks you can taste for yourself if homebrewing is a hobby you want to take to the next level.

Don't get me wrong, I think the entry level brew kits are a good value. They include some special equipment not used here that will make things easier. But, will you enjoy the beer or find the brewing process rewarding? I think so. This project will allow you to find out for yourself.

* Brew pot - any large kitchen pot that will hold a couple of gallons of water with room to spare to avoid boiling over.
* Kitchen strainer - to strain grains and hops before going to the fermenter
* Kitchen thermometer
* Large funnel
* Rolling pin - for crushing the grain
* 3 gallon container of bottled water - this will provide you with the water to make your beer and serve as your fermentation container
* Bottling container - An empty container of at least 3 gallons...could be another empty water bottle or a clean, scratch-free, food grade plastic bucket.
* 3 feet of 3/8" clear poly-vinyl tubing - for siphoning and fermentation air lock
* Bottles - there are a lot of options here and I'll cover some of them in the bottling step later


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Monday, May 08, 2006

Brewer's Malt

This is an interesting article on 2 row and 6 row malt that I found at Realbeer.com.

Brewers call malt "the soul of beer" but they might also add that malt contributes mightily to the different personalities we expect from beer. It's a big subject, so this week we'll discuss barley malt only and stick to the paler varieties.

Of all the barley grown, only one-quarter or less is used for malting. The rest is used to feed animals. Barley is well-suited for malting because it has the right components for yeast nutrition, it tastes good (homebrewers already know this -- if you aren't one, then ask to try some malt next time you visit a brewpub or tour a microbrewery), and it has a solid husk (protecting it at harvest, then later aiding the brewing process).

Barley is first of all divided by how many rows of grain there are in each ear -- either six or two.

Two-row is plumper and responsible for a softer, sweeter flavor. It is regarded as higher quality and long has been the standard in the traditional brewing nations (all of Europe and Great Britain).

Six-row barley is found more often in the United States and hotter Mediterranean lands. Europeans brewers are not alone in calling it less refined, and a beer made only with six-row is more likely to taste grainy and will probably show chill-haze because of excess proteins. In moderation, it lends a firmness and husky character to beer, which some ale brewers prefer.

Six-row is less efficient (yielding less extract from a mash) but because of higher levels of diastic enzymes and protein it is better suited for mashing adjuncts, such as corn or rice, that lack those materials. Thus it was (and is) a perfect barley malt for the style (light lager, with adjuncts) beer that came to dominate the U.S. beer landscape in the 20th century.

Within two-row there are the continental and maritime varieties. The continental barleys, such as those grown in the Czech Republic, are generally sweeter, nuttier and maybe oilier. The maritime barleys of Denmark and the United Kingdom are a bit cleaner and more delicate.

Then there are winter barleys and spring barleys, sown in the fall and later winter respectively. Winter barleys tend to be huskier, spring varieties softer and sweeter.

We'll spare you the details of the different manners in which barley may be malted, and just tell you that is another important variable. Sound confusing enough?

Over much of time, brewers have used the barley grown closest to home, often even malting it themselves. It's fairly recently, and mostly in the United States, that a brewer could order malt from halfway around the world so he or she could make a true-to-style Czech pilsner (with Moravian malt) or a Belgian dubbel (with two-row Belgian pale malt made from winter barley).

A quick summary of these pale options:

- Pilsner malt (2-row) from Europe. This is the palest two-row malt available, and is used in pilsners and other lagers.

- Lager malt (2-row) from the United States. Used in lagers of all colors, as wells as ales and steam beers.

- Lager malt (6-row) from North America. Excellent to use with a high percentage of adjuncts, but generally considered inferior in taste to 2-row.

- Pale ale malt (2-row) from Europe. This malt is what British-style ales are all about (70-90% of a stout is actually pale malt; more next week). The top British and Belgian pale malts are generally considered the best you can buy, and their flavors at quite similar, imparting a maltiness without being sulfury.


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